finalmente

I don't think I'll have time to upload photos this morning because this computer has a lot of issues, but here's an update...

We loved the town of Arcos deep in the "Frontera" of Andalucia which is both the rural part of Spain and the most touristed in the summer because the towns are so tiny, charming, and gorgeous, and in another month the casas will all have flowers flowing off their black iron terraces. Early March is still Winter here and too soon for tourists so in many ways we had the place to ourselves.

Driving on the hilly roads of Arcos was to put it modestly, challenging, and to put it realistically, like being on a rollercoaster that had gone off the tracks. Chris and I both could feel our sore knuckles the rest of the evening - me from clenching the steering wheel and him from the bottom of his seat, I guess.

To give you an idea, the cobblestone roads of the town had AT BEST six inches of space on either side of my car (and I have one of the smallest cars you can rent!!) with a lot of little archways where you can't see who's on the other side, plus there's always oncoming mopeds and other cars that seem to not use any kind of signal or system to decide who's turn it is to go... you just hold your breath and pray and curse all at once. There's also pedestrians everywhere. It was hard.

Also the rules of a normal road don't apply, people park on sidewalks and squeeze by each other on what clearly is one, long, one-way street until another car comes in the opposite direction. I really wanted to see Arcos because there's no reliable way to get there on train or bus but geesh, maybe a taxi would have been sufficient.

Thank heaven we managed to land a parking space on the plaza outside our hotel at the very top of the town, and left the car for 2 days while we walked around in a little rain and ducked into pubs for wine and tapas. One tapas bar we found with only 6 tables and 2 other guests on my birthday was SO nice to us when we ordered tons of food and dipping sauces (we were starving by the time anything opened for dinner at 9:30 p.m.) that they brought us two rounds of caramel vodka from the freezer "a la casa" after dinner. I am not a vodka person but it was a really good desert! Plus when you're hotel is three blocks away on foot, it's all good.

The drive through the rest of the frontera towns was one of the prettiest places on Earth, reminded me of the drive to Big Sur, and I will post some pictures when I can. We saw lots of furry mountain goats and sheep with long un-bobbed tails on the side of the road, as well as pretty beige bulls with long horns grazing gracefully. There were few cars, so going around 30 mph tight hairpin bends wasn't so bad, and we listened to Van Morrison, Newton Faulkner, Ray LaMontagne and David Gray and chilled.

Finally our last night here was in Malaga, a big vacationer's city that looks a lot like Miami, only newer and still being developed. There's condos and villas on steep mountains overlooking the ocean and our parador here is beautiful, though less quaint than everywhere else we've been. It also was up a steep, not well marked hill -- I'm starting to realize the reason that our hotels are always up a long, winding, steep driveway, is because they ARE real castles and had to be up above so they could be fortified from attackers. The drive here was also rough at times but because it's a big city on a major highway in rush hour and the hotel had lousy directions on their web site, but we managed. We're here for the airport, so we can catch a cheap flight back to Barcelona tonight and fly back to the States tomorrow.

Hasta Luego.